Diana found us one of the most unique accommodations we’ve ever stayed in: a historic Portuguese windmill on a hilltop in a rural part of the Alentejo Province.  We stayed here for three nights.

The airbnb host directed us to the small village of São Francisco da Serra, where her parents have a little coffee shop.  With our limited Portuguese we were able to introduce ourselves, and we got the keys to the mill.

Windmill for rent!
Windmill for rent!

Inside the mill are two levels.  Downstairs is the kitchen, and behind a door is the bathroom.

Inside of the windmill, ground floor.
Inside of the windmill, ground floor.

The bedroom was upstairs.  The wooden gears were still in place, which was pretty cool.

Upstairs, big cogwheels are suspended above the bed.
Upstairs, big cogwheels are suspended above the bed.

The main vertical driveshaft had been removed.  We found it outside, decomposing.

We found the main driveshaft of the windmill outside.
We found the main driveshaft of the windmill outside.

We had hot and cold water and electricity.  No tv or internet.  A wood stove kept things nice and toasty when it got chilly in the evening.

Little wood stove.
Little wood stove.

I had a lot of fun gathering wood and stoking the fire.  From the hilltop we had a really nice sunset view to the west.  We could faintly see the coastline in the far distance.

Sunset from the windmill.
Sunset from the windmill.

The next day we decided to go check out the nearby town of Santiago do Cacém.  Its old town is on the side of a hill, and it has a castle and church on top.

Santiago do Cacém
Santiago do Cacém

We found a place to park and walked into town.

Street in Santiago do Cacém.
Street in Santiago do Cacém.

The old town was quite rustic-looking.  We enjoyed having a look around.

Diana at a rustic-looking house.
Diana at a rustic-looking house.

The church on top of the hill is the northern terminus of the Rota Vicentina, a long-distance hiking trail that leads to the very southwestern tip of Portugal.

Church, Santiago do Cacém.
Church, Santiago do Cacém.

We walked around the cobblestone streets of Santiago do Cacém.

Diana at an archway.
Diana at an archway, probably an old castle gate.

After having a look around, we headed to the new town in the valley below for lunch.  We also bought some food for dinner and breakfast.

Walking around in Santiago do Cacém.
Walking around in Santiago do Cacém.

After lunch we drove down to the coast.

House near the beach.
House near the beach.

Behind the dunes are huge campgrounds that fill up to the brim in July and August.  But the place is deserted outside of those two peak months.  We had an enjoyable walk on the coarse-sand beach, and watched the Atlantic surf come rolling in.

Diana walks on a bear near Sines.
Diana walks on a bear near Sines.

We stopped by the sleepy little village of São Francisco da Serra.

Church, São Francisco da Serra.
Church, São Francisco da Serra.

The next day we discussed what to do over breakfast.

Breakfast at the windmill. Note that the table is made out of an old millstone.
Breakfast at the windmill. Note that the table is made out of an old millstone.

We decided to stay around the windmill to enjoy our surroundings.  The sun was shining, and we read our books in the sun.

Relaxing at the windmill.
Relaxing at the windmill.

Just down the hill from the windmill was a forest of cork oaks.

Cork tree.
Cork tree.

Spring wildflowers were blooming, and butterflies flitted between them.

Wild lavender.
Wild lavender.

There were some very pretty flowers and butterflies around.

Swallowtail butterfly.
Swallowtail butterfly.

In the evening we enjoyed our final sunset at the windmill.

Windmill at sunset.
Windmill at sunset.

Diana enjoyed taking some pictures.

Diana photographs the sunset.
Diana photographs the sunset.

In the valley below our windmill was a ruined farmhouse.

Sunset scenery.
Sunset scenery.

After dark, stars lit up the sky.

Star trails above the windmill.
Star trails above the windmill.

Logistics

Santiago do Cacém is south of Lisbon.  You’ll need a car to get there.  We rented ours at the airport.  It’s less than two hours if you take the toll roads (expensive), and a bit more than two hours if you take the back roads.  The driving is easy once you get past the huge roundabout just outside of the airport (six lanes, eight exits, and lots of traffic lights here and there).

The windmill was listed on airbnb.  At present the listing appears to be gone.

Map of southern Portugal.
Map of southern Portugal.

 

Staying in a windmill, Alentejo, Portugal