This is part 3 of our hike around Jeju Island. Go back to part one or part two.
Olle 14
We haven’t had a chance yet to hike Olle 12 and 13, so let’s move on to Olle 14. We hiked the coastal section of Olle 14 last year, and I wrote it up in this blog post. The coastal section goes from Hallim to Wollyeongpogu. Wollyeongpogu is a quaint fishing village. We found this stirring mural on one of the houses.
Across the highway, the Olle trail led us inland along a drainage channel. I think the stream is called Mumyeongcheon.
After several kilometers of pleasant hiking along the channel we approached a big industrial complex – a smelly brewery and some other factories. Avoiding the industrial park, the trail led into a confined bushy area with rubbly rocks underfoot. Hiking this section was tiring and unrewarding. The trail finally emerged from the bush at an uninspiring bulldozed area. Everything here was overgrown with vines. The rocks on the path were of the ankle-twisting variety.
An interpretive sign read: “The feeling of walking down the road is cozy and calming so Jeju Olle named it.” My experience was somewhat different; rather than cozy and calming, I found it to be tedious and frustrating.
Eventually the trail started wandering though farmland. The footing was better here and the surroundings were pleasant.
A short distance before the end of Olle 14 we turned back. Rather than retracing the tiring and convoluted route through the bush, we followed the streambed directly to the brewery, where picked up the pleasant trail back to the coast. This shortcut saved several kilometers of trudging.
Olle 15
Olle 15 begins in Hallim Harbour. Hallim Harbour is one of the biggest fishing harbours on the north coast, and we enjoyed watching colourful boats bob around.
Just north of the harbour is a causeway with good views out to sea.
The trail then led inland, through some cabbage fields.
It is my understanding that the word “Olle” means a passageway between stone walls, in the Jeju language. I think it is passageways like this that inspired the creation of the Olle trail system.
Back at the coast we walked past this statue. It seemed to combine Dol Hareubang with traditional Korean dress.
The next point of interest along the coast was Gwakji Beach, a stretch of pale sand.
Diana, Gwakji Beach.
Just past Gwakji Beach was Jang Han Cheol Promenade, a well-constructed pathway that skirts around some bays beneath low cliffs.
Diana at Jang Han Cheol Promenade. The wind really picked up in the afternoon.
Olle 15 ended in the larger town of Aewol. Its seafront is dominated by a refinery, and is thus less photogenic than other stretches of this coastline.
Olle 16
Olle 16 starts in Aewol. It follows the coastline for about 5 km before heading inland. Most of the coastline here is a raised escarpment. The coastal road follows the edge of the escarpment and offers great views up and down the coast. The road had a biking-hiking lane that was physically separate from the driving lanes.
We stopped by a coffee shop for some java. It was bleeding hot inside the shop, so while seats in the shop had a wonderful view up and down the coast, we got our coffees to go.
We lingered at this nice bench. Eventually we got up to continue our hike, and a Korean couple took our place. When they sat down, the seat immediately collapsed beneath them. Luckily they were not hurt.
Coastal views.
The Olle signposts directed us across the main highway and inland. The trail led up to the top of the oreum (volcanic cone) seen in the next picture.
There was no view from the top of the oreum. The trail continued heading inland through nice farmland. Peaceful it wasn’t, however, because planes approaching Jeju’s airport were screaming close overhead – one every few minutes. But we were in no position to complain because we got to Jeju by plane after all.
When we reached the highway at Jangsumul we turned back.
On the way back to the coast I stopped to look at the map on my phone. Nearby was a crate half-full of oranges that looked like it had fallen off the back of a truck. A lady came up get it, and then turned to us and gave us an orange each. We smiled, thanked her, and then, smiling back, she gave us a few more each. When I took off my pack to put in the oranges, she dumped the rest of the crate into my pack. Big smiles and lots of bowing and thank-yous ensued. This is how Jeju is – people are really nice and generous. With my heavy pack we stumbled to the coastal road, where we jumped on a bus to take us back to our car.
Here is dinner at the restaurant across from our hotel. Diana had noodle soup and I had spicy beef shortribs.
View from our apartment at sunset.
We have not yet hiked Olle 17. Go to part 4 of our hike around Jeju Island.